|
Previous articles
These articles are protected by
copyright: Simon Rademan Fashion Design Studio CC Media
request for an interview
The Fashion Art of
Suggestion
Fashion repeats itself every now and then. Read
more on this page on the undergarments ladies wore exactly a 100
years ago and be thankful that we live in different times.
From “And all was revealed” – Ladies’ underwear 1907 by Doreen Caldwell
A.
B. C.
D. E.
F. G.
A. In Edwardian
times women clothed themselves in an aura of veiled and
beautiful mystery. Whilst carefully, even prudishly, concealing
their naked bodies beneath layers of underwear, they developed
the art of seduction by suggestion to great heights and it was
these very underclothes that formed the basis of their art.
Although it
was permissible, desirable, even `quite fascinating' to reveal
the seduction of frills beneath one's dress skirts, . . one of
the most disastrous aspects of the raised skirt is when the silk
underskirt is caught higher than the transparency and reveals.... well ... anything there is to be seen.'
Back to visuals
B. Only a
mature woman could wear the fashions of the day to advantage.
The camisole or, as it
was now called, the corset-cover, was made of thin silk
en
princesse
with
practically no sleeves. Because traditional seams were lumpy
they were replaced by sewing onto each edge the most minute line
of open work insertion. The top of the petticoat was made plain
and tight fitting so as not to disturb the smoothness of the
hips.
A typical and very expensive garment was this petticoat in
rosecoloured silk. It had a long upper skirt whose deep
scalloped edges went over an accordion pleated flounce.
Back to visuals
C. One or two white muslin petticoats with flounces of
broderie anglaise
and baby ribbon edgings were worn beneath these
`beautiful persuasions'
of
satin or taffeta. In wintry
weather the soft comforting warmth of an extra lace trimmed
petticoat would be sought.
Back to visuals
D. Drawers became known as knickers, which were wider than ever.
'Wide-leg knickers of
Mull muslin or silk with flounce and three rows of insertion,
threaded with baby ribbon, worn under lace or silk petticoat for
those who like a froth of frillies beneath their dress skirts.'
Fashion journal.
Many ladies still wore their knickers beneath their corset:
a custom that survived from early Victorian days when the
corset was worn on top of all other underwear and immediately
below the outer garment.
Back to visuals
E.
What mattered in a lady's figure
was the upright poise of the shoulders, a long sloping bust with
a straight front line - no hint must be given that the bosom is
composed of two breasts - and the graceful curve of the dress
over the hips. All corsets were laced at the
back and it was this lacing that did the damage. In actuality the abdomen had
ceased to exist, all the fullness being thrown upward into the
chest and stomach. The waist was excessively narrow and there
was a violent bend in the body at the back. About this time
there was a considerable outcry against the corset on health
grounds: and so formidable was the array of hostile medical
opinion that some countries began to legislate against corsets
forbidding them altogether for the use of growing girls.' James
Laver,
Taste and Fashion.
Back to visuals
F. The days of combinations were now past, or so the fashion journals wrote.
Everyone wore chemises, Empire pattern, sloped at the waist and
tied with coloured bows at the shoulders.Women rationalised a
desire for luxurious underclothes by advocating delicate
hygiene. 'The truly fastidious woman had to ensure that she wore
linings within her corset and knickers that could he changed
daily, for this dainty underwear with its burden of baby ribbon
and lace was more difficult to wash than the `durable longcloth'
worn by the lower classes. Embroidered
silk stockings were delicately tinted to blend with the rest of
the chosen ensemble. Doctors
condemned the use of garters as being liable to produce varicose
veins.
Back to visuals
G.
Through the
deliciously silky frills and swirling froths of lingerie and the
tight-laced strictures of the corset, women contrived a
silhouette
whose
ideal was epitomised by The Gibson Girl, a creation of
the American illustrator Charles Dana Gibson. Yet , though both
corset and lingerie created the fashionable sway-back figure,
perhaps the true seductive implication of their lacy luxury is
contained in words addressed to a bride:
“Iingerie is by far the most important part of the
trousseau.'
Back to visuals
Back to THIS month's free article
Visit
our bridal page
for more information on what bridal couture looks like in
2007,
or book a consultation
Frequently asked questions |
